We left Taita Hills 05.30 am trying to catch the sunrise on the Tsavo East national park’s gate. There were just me, Jyrki and my excellent guide Ken and a thirsty dik-dik. 12 hours of amazing wildlife of Kenya.
Elephants, Tsavo reds, tiny ones, huge ones, big herds, small families, baby learning to drink with the trunk.
Gerenuks, looked like aliens.
Birds like starlings, guineafowls, ostriches and hornbills
Lions, lazily lying in the sun.
It was incredible how many different animals we saw and how close we got to them.
Many of the grazers are partly browsers, meaning that they shift to eating leaves during dry season, these are e.g. impalas and zebras.
When there are less trees, there is less food. Especially green food during drought. You can see from this gallery of images how little trees and green there is in Lumo during drought.
However, I didn’t see any animals dying of hunger or thirst.
Short video introduction to tree hyraxes, with unique footage
Video of tree hyraxes filmed at night with night binoculars
As far as we know this is first video of tree hyraxes filmed at night. Tree hyraxes in East Africa are extremely shy, and difficult to observe. Usually they vanish in to the canopy when seen, or before humans can see them.
Mwalua Wildlife Trust was founded by Patrick Kilonzo to provide drinking water for animals suffering from lack of water during the dry season. As Water for Elephants has been success, many more work needs to be done. Volunteers from all over the world are welcome to join
Test if you identify animals from thermal imaging camera. Animals in the video are nocturnal and live in indigenous cloud forests of Taita Hills, Kenya. These animals are surviving on the last fragments of indigenous forest.
Tsavo West is one of most beautiful places in the world. And one of world largest conservation areas. This short film introduces scenery of Tsavo West and its most common animals. Peter also visits Chaimu crater and Mzima springs.
Critically Endangered (CR) vultures, Rüppells Vulture and White-Backed Vulture feeding on cow that has been killed by lions in Lumo conservancy Kenya in 2021. As they feed they make considerable noise, squealing.
This article shows how to identify these species and discusses reasons behing re, even though it is not always easy as their coloring changes with age.
Magnificent sight in African savannas that has sadly become increasingly rare. These vultures have gathered here in Lumo conservancy, Taita, Kenya.
Rüppell’s Vulture (Gyps rueppelli)
Larger species is Rüppells Vulture (Gyps rueppelli), with beautiful white decorations in the feathers and white collar.
Rüppells vulture (Gyps rueppelli) standing on a cow.Wingspan of this species is over two meters 226-255.
There are no feathers on the head or the neck. This allows birds to stick their heads inside carcasses. There was actually one fully in on this carcass.
Rüppell’s vulture is a species that has flown in the altitude of 11300m. Individual died as it crashed with aeroplane. This is highest altitude where bird has ever been proven to be.
Rüppell’s vulture on flight
Rüppell’s vulture weighs 6.4-9 kg. Wingspan is 226-255.
Rüppell’s Vulture from behind (on the left). Others are White-Backed Vultures.
White-Backed Vulture (Gyps africanus)
White-Backed Vulture is ligher brown and more even in coloring. It weighs 4.2-7.2 kilograms and wingspan is 192-225 cm.
White-Backed Vulture (Gyps africanus) is smaller than Rüppells Vulture and may avoid confrontation with larger species.
White-Backed Vulture from the front with nice light brown coloring.
White-Backed Vulture on flight, its wingspan may also exceed two meters
How to separate these two species? Here in the front is White-Backed Vulture and on the behind Rüppell’s Vulture. Coloring is different, with White-Backed being lighter brown. Rüppell’s is larger and sturdier.
Reasons for decrease of vultures
Loss of trees used for resting and nesting. Vultures need large trees (about 1m wide at breast height) in the places where they are not disturbed. These trees are rare in Africa.
These are trees in Taita Sanctuary where vultures used to sleep in 2018 and 2019. Now they have moved. These trees have died as they cant survive this treatment by vultures.These trees were only ones in the area large enough for vultures.
Pesticides and poisoning – as vultures are top carnivores – what ever their prey has been feeding on ends up in vultures and accumulates to their bodies causing serious consequences including death. These are heavy metals from pesticides, medicines used for cattle and direct poisons. Vultures have been poisoned accidentally and non-accidentally.
Loss of habitat, as ever increasing human population requires more and more land. Habitat suitable for vultures decrease all over Africa.
Tsawo West is large park, where you literally can get lost (like we did). It is covered with small mountain ranges and small trees. Elephants and dik-diks are more abundant in the more dense areas, where as zebras, giraffes and many antilopes prefer more open areas for safety.
Large male with other horn broken from Tsavo West, close to Tsavo river
We drove in from Mtito Andei Gate from highway between Nairobi and Mombasa. We payed the fee through mPesa. As we were not sure if cash payments were possible. Fee for four people, two residents, two non-residents was only 63 euros, as due to covid-epidemic Kenya reduced the fees for 50 %.
Elephants close to Mtito Andei gate
From the beginning we saw elephants, lots of elephants and lots of dik-diks. First stop was rhino sanctuary, but it was open only between 16-18. Thus we only used clean toilets and continued to Chaimu crater.
This leopard turtle was among the first animals we saw.
Dik-diksare along the road
We also saw several bat-eared foxes
Scenery from Chaimu crater, where we climbing is possible. Chaimu is dormant volcano, that erupted just 200 years ago. More about Chaimu from the video we made (also added below). See how small Toyota Hilux looks in this landscape!
From Chaimu crater we continued to Mzima springs. Mzima springs is 55 kilometers from Mtito Andei gate. After long drive it is nice to be able to do a small walk in Mzima springs to see hippos and crocodiles.
Hippo group from Mzima springs
Crocodile from Mzima springs
From Mzima springs our idea was to continue to the Voi-Taveta road close to Maktau. However we could not find bridge through Tsavo river. The bridge all roads lead to was under construction, and we didn’t have a map. So we had to drive all the way back to Mtito Andei gate. As we had left from Wundanyi, total drive of the day was 450 km. Next time I will by the map in advance, you can’t trust that you could get one from the gate.
Area around Mzima springs is more dry and open. We saw hundreds of zebras, countless giraffes and other antilopes.
Animals and photos that were memorable for me are these
Red-billed hornbill
Baboon family close to Tsavo river
Klipspringer
Paradise whydah (Vidua paradisea)
Wildlife in Tsavo West is astounding. I will definedly go back, to camp in tents for some time.
How sweet and peaceful this baboon female looks
We made this video to be shown at local schools, so that they would also learn about Tsavo West. It is also very informative for anyone planning to visit Tsavo West.
Article published 14.12.2020 in MDPI journal Diversity
This article describes acoustic communication of Taita tree hyrax (Dendrohyrax), dwarf galago (Paragalago) populations living in Taita Hills and small-eared greater galago (Otolemur garnettii lasiotis) population.
This article is written by Hanna Rosti, Jouko Rikkinen, Henry Pihlström, Simon Bearder and Petri Pellikka.
Main findings:
Tree hyraxes from Taita Hills most likely belong to previously undescribed species. This is based on call named ‘strangled thwack’ that is not heard from other tree hyrax species.
Tree hyrax female from Taita Hills
Spectrogram image of strangled thwack
Sound sample of strangled thwack
2. Taita tree hyraxes sing, these songs may last more than 12 minutes. In these songs several different syllables are combined in different order. Most likely these songs are used by males to attract females.
Tree hyrax song sample from Taita Hills
3. The other dwarf galago population is Kenya coast dwarf galago population (Paragalago cocos). This population is almost extinct with only about 10 individuals.
Kenya coast dwarf galago is living on mountain of Taita Hills.
Spectrogam of dwarf galago calls from Taita Hills
Recording from population believed to be Kenya coast dwarf galago in Taita Hills
4. Small-eared greater galagos in Taita Hills belong to subspecies Otolemur garnettii lasiotis. This was confirmed by comparing acoustical analysis from different subspecies.
Young male O. g. lasiotis with very white tail from Taita Hills
View to Lumo from Lions Bluff Hotel 2008 and 2019. Change in tree cover due to elephants is significant and leads to loss of biodiversity. Trees are habitats for many insects, birds need trees for nest sites and many herbivores are browsers during dry season.
Elephants in Tsavo and Lumo were severy poached, hunted for ivory for decades. Elephant poaching is less severe in many areas of Kenya at the moment, but it happens, as can be seen from orphan stories from Sheldric foundation. Drought and human wildlife conflict are also common reasons for baby elephant to be orphaned.
Baby orphan in Sheldrick elephant orphanage in Nairobi.
This article explains reasons behind worsening drought and human wildlife conflict in Taita area Kenya. What are consequences to the savanna, and also what could and should be done for protection of all species, humans, and local way of life.
Elephant herd just outside Lumo Latika gate March 2018. Brown coloring comes from the soil.
Kenya does not allow trophy hunting for money like some other African countries. Sometimes elephants are transported to other areas when there are too many elephants in certain area. I personally value and respect Kenya for this.
In 2018 there was 18500 elephants in Tsavo and number is increasing.
Elephants that are living in Tsavo and Lumo area still show some fearful behaviors that were caused by poaching. Most large males don’t react to people or cars, but many herds with small baby elephants begin to walk away, sometimes running, when humans are approaching.
Very tiny baby elephant in Lumo March 2018. Dead trees are everywhere
Trees are pushed down by elephants
Increasing numbers of elephants are devastating to trees during dry season. Hungry and thirsty animals push the trees down. There has been dramatic change in the tree cover of savanna during just last 10 years, as can be seen in the image above.
Conversation with local rangers or other conservation people always goes for the trees, and worry about what is happening to the savanna as trees are vanishing. People love elephants and having healthy elephant population is great pride.
Elephants were hit so hard by people during worse poaching years, that it is wonderful to see the return of these majestic, emotional and intelligent animals. However, we also need to help savanna to stay inhabitable for the elephants and all other savanna lifeforms.
Tsavo and Lumo are fenced by tall electric fence. (Although I have never seen electricity running in it.) I have countless time seen how impalas jump through the fence to go browsing outside the Lumo area. Fence keeps elephants in the conservation areas up to certain point. However nothing stops elephants, if they are really going for it.
Human wildlife conflict between humans and elephants leads to loss of harvest and sometimes also loss of human lives. Local people can truly lose everything they have when elephants raide their farm.
Orphan from Bura orphanage, his mom was killed by elephants as she was protecting the crop.
Elephants may also be killed or poisoned during these raids to farms. Baby elephants may be separated from their mothers during the chaos when whole village chases elephants out of the fields. This is how human-wildlife conflict creates elephant orphans.
Maktao, (born 2017) orphaned by human wildlife conflict close to Maktau. He was rescued by Lumo ranger Dennis Kironge. Maktao is being looked after by Sheldric Foundation in Tsavo.
Forests of Taita Hills were replaced by farms, causing reduction in rainfall and scarcity of water
Reason why elephants become so thirsty and hungry is also related to changes in land use patterns and growth of human population. Surrounding Taita Hills is densely inhabited and old, about 30 million year old forests have been changed into fields for farming. Population growth has forced people to cultivate areas that are not very suitable for cultivation, like steep hills and areas with poor soil, or too dry areas. Fields and villages don’t attract rainwater like indigenous forest. When it rains, water runs down quickly.
Daphne Sheldric describes in her magnificent book An African Love Story, how during the most intense clearing time of Taita Hills elephants were drowning in to mud in Tsavo as soil from Taita Hills were flushed down from the hills! They were saving elephants by pulling them from the mud by cars.
Rivers bringing water to lowland savanna areas are born in Taita Hills. These old mountains used to be covered with forests – 30 million year old ancient forest. Biodiversity of those forests were incredible. During last 100 years almost all forests have been cleared for fields or forests have been replaced by exotic trees, like eucalyptus that cause even more drought. Now there is not much water left for savannas.
Now conflicts about water are common between people, and many people face difficult time during dry season, when community wells are far away.
Remnants of indigenous forests are called water towers, their significance for attracting rainwater is now understood. However 98 % of these forests have been destroyed, most during last 100 years.
When there is not enough water for people, there is even less for wildlife during dry season.
So current issue of lack of water during dry season is more severe because there is less water to begin with, and also less space for the elephants.
Hungry and thirsty elephants push trees down.
Dead trees are everywhere in Lumo March 2018. Kilimanjaro can be seen behind elephant family.
When trees disappear, biodiversity dives down
Loss of trees lead to loss of biodiversity as trees are habitats for countless insects, that are consumed by birds, that also use trees as nest sites. Large vultures and eagles need large trees. Many antelopes, like impalas, kudus, duikers, eland, and gazelles also feed on leaved during dry season when grass becomes yellow and low in nutrients. During this time leaves of many trees stay green as root system enables trees to gather water deeper from the soil. Giraffes and gerenuks are dependent on trees. Also black rhino is a browser, so in order to keep savannas good for return of black rhino, there must be trees.
Giraffes are dependent of trees, Masai Mara August 2018.
Water buffalo and hartebeest are fine with just eating grass, and there is abundant populations of both in Lumo.
Hardebeest in Lumo August 2018
Keeping trees in the savanna is important for biodiversity as all these species have intrinsic value on their own. However in Lumo people are also worried for loss of biodiversity as less animals will mean less income. As Lumo is community owned and income is spread with 5000 local people, this is extremely important for them. Most of income Lumo is bringing to local community is used for school fees, for children who could not other wise go to school at all. Will tourists come if many species disappear with trees?
How to help elephants and savanna
Mwalua Wildlife Trust http://www.mwaluawildlifetrust.org works actively to distribute water for the wildlife during dry season, and is also engaged in many other activities that help elephants and other wildlife and also mitigate human wildlife conflict. Mwalua Wildlife Trust in Facebook https://www.facebook.com/mwaluawildlifetrust/.
Sheldric Foundation takes care of baby elephants and releases them to Tsavo. Baby elephant, like Maktao here, can be adopted for 50 dollars a year. https://www.sheldrickwildlifetrust.org/orphans
There is also reforestation project in Taita Hills Wildlife Sanctuary, that belongs to Sarova Hotel. This is fenced area, that was established about 2009. Areas where reforestation takes place, need to be fenced and trees need to be watered during dry season, otherwise trees will die. This makes reforestation much more expansive, as it requires expensive fencing and long term labour.
Trees inside fenced area in Taita Hills Wildlife Sanctuary. There are abundant bird and insect fauna.
However, fence can be moved once trees are large enough to stand on their own.
Biodiversity in the enclosed area is significantly higher than right outside the fence. I have spent a day there observing insects and birds, while geographers I was with were identifying and measuring trees. Also view from higher place shows that areas outside conservation areas are growing trees and bushes.
Large enterprices could use their carbon footprint compensations for reforestations of savannas.
To keep savanna biodiversity and elephant populations healthy in current situation where water and space is limited for elephants reforestation is needed.
Large companies, including e.g. airline companies, are planting trees to compensate their carbon emissions. This would be excellent way to solve problem of elephants causing loss of biodiversity.
Fenced reforestation areas should be used and fence should be relocated in about 15 years as trees grow to keep savanna biodiversity.
Lumo is community owned conservation area in Taita. It is bordered by Taita Hills and Tsavo National Park. On the other side Lumo is connected to Sarova Taita Hills Wildlife Sanctuary. Lumo is 50 000 hectare area owned by more than 5000 local people. Funds Lumo is able to gather by wildlife tourism is shared with local people. Most money goes to pay school bills for those children that would not be able to go to school otherwise.
Besides school bills, Lumo also supports local community by any means they have by having bank day, delivering firewood and food to schools, helping in fencing and so on.
Lumo is strikingly beautiful savanna. Heart of the Lumo is Lions Rock. A rock formation that is popular among large cats, lions and leopards.
View from beautiful Lions Rock in Lumo
I spent four weeks in Lumo in 2018 as a volunteer. It was a five star safari with Lumo rangers. Accommodation was more moderate than what your would have expected in five star safari, but very good for me. We even had our own chef.
There is abundant wildlife in Lumo. Elephants, hartebeest, giraffe, water buffalos, zebras, grant gazelles, impalas, cheetahs, lions. All except the rhino.
I saw many very small baby elephants in Lumo in March 2018. Baby elephant was so small that they must have been born in Lumo.
This is photo gallery, larger images can be seen by clicking images
Dedicated rangers of Lumo are heroes of conservation. I have enormous respect on the work that they do every day, year after year. Many rangers in Lumo have worked there for 20 years. During this time poaching has been minimized.
Head ranger Elvis at Lions Rock
Lumo ranger patrol the area by foot and by car. This is important way to keep poaching away and observe possibly injured animals. Population numbers of animals are calculated with GPS locations. University of Helsinki also does research in the area.
Lumo ranger and driver Dennis Kironge with new car in August 2018 in front of Lumo office.
There are cattle grazing areas inside Lumo. As Lumo was founded all cattle farmers in the area didn’t join. Too many cows have caused serious erosion in the grazing area. The number of cows is too many. Markets for beef are small, and cows are living until old age, having young each year. Owners of the cows are not the ones that herd them.
These cows were grazing in wrong area and they where escorted away.
Having too much livestock has caused serious erasion in grazing areas. However having livestock inside conservation areas is not all bad. In fact humans have kept cattle in Africa for thousands of years. Many ungulates, zebras and impalas for example, prefer to eat shorter grass. In shorter grass nutrient level is higher. Cattle keeps grass low. In areas where there is no grazing hay may grow up to one meter high. These tall grass areas are usually quite empty of wildlife, as this tall grass is very low in nutrients.
Erosion in cattle grazing area.
In March 2018 “cattle prison” was founded in Lumo. Now cattle found grazing in non grazing areas are herded to this fenced area. Owner of the cattle has to pay to get his cattle back. I was there when it was made, and there was not even a gate installed before first herd was in! Owner had to pay about 500 euros to get the cattle back. It changed the situation completely, and now there is no grazing inside areas dedicated for conservation. Lumo has also worked with local community to improve markets for different products made of cattle, like meat, skins, even bones can be used as jewelry. Goal is to decrease number of cows and improve lives of local people.
Cattle prison in February 2018.
More information about Lumo, including how to volunteer from their website bellow. If you are interested in volunteering I suggest that you contact Lumo directly. There are several agencies that act as middle man, however they take much of the money themselves. In Lumo great work is done with minimum funding.
As I was volunteering in Lumo, one day we came across footprints on the road, quite close to Lions Rock. Head-ranger Elvis and others thought that there is camel, escaped from some local camel farm.
Mystery footprint
As we followed these foot prints for a day, they lead to small water bond, made for local cows and wildlife, called dam. It certainly could not be a camel! So we started to look for a Hippo instead.
Footprints leading to the water
Footprints were going in and coming out of the water. Rangers went look for it from the nearby bushes, as I stayed by the bond, and kept eye on the brown surface of the water. After wait, that felt very long, I could see nostrils arising from water.
First Hippo in Lumo ever, and only photograph of it.
Kenya wildlife service (KWS) was informed, and they came the following day. Idea was to relocate Hippo to the area, where there would be space for it. This Hippo most probably was young male, that highly territorial males had chased away from Lake Jipe about 50 km away. A long walk for a large animal!
When KWS arrived, Hippo was no longer there. They and we searched for it everywhere with no luck. Day after that we heard sad news that Hippo had been shoot in Bura village. It had been aggressive towards people, and there had been no alternative. Somehow that Hippo had walked unnoticed from fenced Lumo all the way to the mountains. It had been very bad choice as in mountain slopes there are simply no places for Hippos to go underwater.